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"Han Kim (hankim@u.washington.edu) wrote:
: Hi,
:
: Can anyone tell me if a bead blasted frame can be brushed with minimum
: use of power tools and minimal effort? Does anybody have experience
: with this? Thanks."
"Hand tools, yes. Minimum effort, no. Most brushed frames out there are
hand finished. The red (medium) Scotchbrite hand pad is the abrasive of
choice. Get the Scotchbrite in strip ("production rolls" in the 3M catalog)
and stick it to a 3 foot length of Velcro. Loop this over the frame tubes
and do the funky monkey. About 4 hours later the frame will have the same
finish as a Merlin.
Gary Helfrich
Arctos Machine"
"For the hell of it, I am considering polishing my DX cranks to a mirror
finish. I have an industrial strength wheel and a Dremel tool which I'm
sure can do the work, but I don't know what I need as far as polish. I
have some rubbing compound that I have used on my car with a buffer to
blend in some spot painting so I'm wondering if this would work with
aluminium or is there something specific I could get to do the job????
Also I have a Titanium handlebar that I might consider polishing if it
could be accomplished with the tools I mentioned and may be a special
wheel and polish. Has anyone had any experience with this??????
No Polish jokes,,,,,,Please
Jane"
"Horsepower is the key to any polishing job. The Dremel is not going to
cut it. Try mounting some 6-8 inch sewn buffs on a bench grinder. Wear
some heavy cotton gloves, cause the part will get very hot if you are
buffing with enough force. A 1800 rpm grinder is better than a 3600 rpm
one. It should have at least a 1 horsepower motor.
The best tool for the job is a Suhner flex shaft. It is like a dremel on
steroids. They are made in Switzerland, have a 3 horsepower motor, and
can toss a 250 lb person across the room when they get caught on
something. They also cost as much as a Merlin Newsboy. I've got a Suhner
that you can use if you are ever in the neighborhood.
American Rotary Tool (800-624-2210) is one of the best sources for
polishing equipment. So far as buffing compound is concerned, ask for
"the green stuff". I've got no idea what is in the green stuff, but it
kicks butt when it comes down to making something shiny. I've never been
able to get a MSDS on the stuff, so I wear free air system when I'm using
it. The green stuff is what I used on all of the titanium stems and
bikes I've made, so it should work great for your bars as well.
I use a tighly sewn sisal buff to cut down the surface. I color it out
with a sewn muslin wheel that I load with less and less compound as I
approach the finish I am looking for. Green stuff is used in both
cases. Never use sandpaper if you can help it. You can tell a real geek
when they start talking about 600 grit wet sanding. Scotchbrite
EXL-2S-FIN it the only thing to use to get rid of big sratches and
gouges. Load it up with either wax, or Green Stuff if it is too
aggressive.
You might want to go to a commercial paint supply store and get a Tyvek
suit to work in. Polishing is just about the dirtiest job there is.
Greasy black threads everywhere.
Have fun!!
Gary Helfrich
Arctos Machine"
"I've looked at a few ti frames and I'm wondering why there is a difference
in the color of the titanium. For instance, Litespeed and Ibis both use
3/2.5 and yet there is a big difference in Litespeed's satin finish ver.
the Ibis finish. What makes the Ibis frame so much darker?
Jim"
"The Ibis one is way cooler, so it does not reflect light as well.
The real reason is that Ibis and Litespeed use different finishing
processes. The polished Litespeed will reflect light differently than the
bead blasted and Scotchbrite finish that Ibis does. The satin finish
Litespeed is blasted only and is not rubbed with Scotchbrite. The Ibis is
also soaked in Lemon Pledge as a final step.
Gary Helfrich
Arctos Machine"
"Just got a Kona Hei Hei which had been painted in Team colors. I want to
restore to natural titanium satin finish. Any recommnedations to safely
remove paint without hurting the Ti frame? Some have suggested blasting
with a plastic medium (instead of sand) or chemical removal. Appreciate
any help. Thanks...."
"Sandblasting will not hurt anything, but it will make the refinishing take
a good deal longer. Any commercial paint stripper is fine to use on a
titanium frame. The red Scotchbrite general purpose pad is the best to
use for a "Merlin like" finish.
Gary Helfrich
Arctos Machine"
Och till sist, ett mycket lätt experimentellt titanramset som kom ut 1994. Många år tidigare än Scott CR1 och som faktiskt väger mindre än denna ram + gaffel.
"An interesting sidebar on frame weight. I have been working for several
years with Ancotech. (They produce over 85% of all the titanium tubes
used in the bike industry today) We tried to make as light a frame as
possible, with no concern for expense or difficulty. It was a 58 cm road
frame. The frame and fork weight exactly one kilogram. The thing was
ridable, and is still tooling around back in Detroit at the mill. It
also took over 300 hours to build and involved over $36000. (Yes, that is
3 zeros) of tooling. It was just done as a case study to see what the
limits were. The bike with ridable parts weighed 6.5 kilos. No, I will
not build another one!
Gary Helfrich"
