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C
cal
Guest
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Det är enklare att bygga ett par nya hjul för skivbroms än att riva ner begagnade hjul, skaffa nya nav och ekrar och försöka få det bra. Kostnaden för en skivbromsfälg är dessutom så pass liten att det inte är mycket att fundera över. :)
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det beror ju på.
har du skivbromsfästen på navet så behövs det inte, däremot om du inte har skivfästen på hjulen så äre nästan samma peng att köpa nya hjul som att riva de gamla o byta nav samtidigt som du får ny fräsh fälg.
du sparar alltså bara priset på fälgen, vilket är omotiverat då du får ett extra hjulpar som reserv ifall de nya skulle rasa alt ha på en annan hoj, eller rent av sälja dem.
har du skivbromsfästen på navet så behövs det inte, däremot om du inte har skivfästen på hjulen så äre nästan samma peng att köpa nya hjul som att riva de gamla o byta nav samtidigt som du får ny fräsh fälg.
du sparar alltså bara priset på fälgen, vilket är omotiverat då du får ett extra hjulpar som reserv ifall de nya skulle rasa alt ha på en annan hoj, eller rent av sälja dem.
Tobbe Arnesson
Ny medlem
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Merlin, som är erkända hjulbyggare, har ofta bra paketpris på hjul och bromsar:
http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/
http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/
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[reklam]Om man vill byta men har inte pengar till att skaffa allting på en gång har WTB sina Dual Duty FR och Dual Duty XC hjulpar.
http://www.wtb.com/dualduty_wheelset.html
Funkar med V-broms idag och med skivbroms när du har råd att köpa resten. Lite billigare än att anlita en proffs, men att bygga själv är billigare och givande på flera sätt om man har tid och verktyg.[/reklam]
http://www.wtb.com/dualduty_wheelset.html
Funkar med V-broms idag och med skivbroms när du har råd att köpa resten. Lite billigare än att anlita en proffs, men att bygga själv är billigare och givande på flera sätt om man har tid och verktyg.[/reklam]
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I bought a set of wheels from Merlin Cycles about 8 years ago... they were really great... not sure if they have the same wheel builder still.. but yes the nipples were sealed with a nipple loctite... and they stayed true and tight until the rims wore out.....
Take it easy,
Hammer.
Take it easy,
Hammer.
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If they use the correct grade, like Mavics nipple sealer.... then it should not be a problem, as it stops water getting in and stops corrosion also..... I ahve also used regular "blue" loctite before and never had a problem...
Wheels without threadlocker juust come loose, corrode... and I can't see why anyone wouldn't use loctite to build a wheel....
Hammer
Wheels without threadlocker juust come loose, corrode... and I can't see why anyone wouldn't use loctite to build a wheel....
Hammer
Tobbe Arnesson
Ny medlem
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Det finns visst två skolor, de som loctitar och de som menar att ett korrekt byggt hjul inte behöver det. Själv smorde jag nipplarna med Finnish Line XC-olja (enligt Kajsa Wargs principer).
mytomspunnen
Aktiv medlem
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Hammer wrote:
>Wheels without threadlocker juust come loose, corrode... and I can't see why anyone wouldn't use loctite to >build a wheel....
What kind of rims, spokes and nipples do you use?
I prefer stainless steel spokes, alu rims and brass nipples. I can't see how that could corrode!!!
And no, if the spoke tension is right, the spokes doesn't come loose!
>Wheels without threadlocker juust come loose, corrode... and I can't see why anyone wouldn't use loctite to >build a wheel....
What kind of rims, spokes and nipples do you use?
I prefer stainless steel spokes, alu rims and brass nipples. I can't see how that could corrode!!!
And no, if the spoke tension is right, the spokes doesn't come loose!
H
Henke_N
Guest
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Varför skriver den där Hammer på engelska? Han kan ju svenska.
Henke
Henke
C
cal
Guest
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Kan det vara så att engelska är hans modersmål och att han har lättare för att förstå skriven svenska än att formulera den själv? Hammer skriver inlägg på svenska ibland, men de inlägg han formulerar på engelska är 10ggr bättre och roligare att läsa. :)
Go Hammer! :)
Go Hammer! :)
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http://www.actionsports.de/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=612
Är det bara jag som läser fel eller är det kompletta skivor och reglage? I så fall är det väl ganska BILLIGT?!
Jaja, man måste ju ha centerlock-nav i och för sig men ändå?
Är det bara jag som läser fel eller är det kompletta skivor och reglage? I så fall är det väl ganska BILLIGT?!
Jaja, man måste ju ha centerlock-nav i och för sig men ändå?
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mytomspunnen Skrev:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What kind of rims, spokes and nipples do you use?
> I prefer stainless steel spokes, alu rims and
> brass nipples. I can't see how that could
> corrode!!!
> And no, if the spoke tension is right, the spokes
> doesn't come loose!
Round rims, straight spokes....? ;-)
I have never built my own wheels, I am not that interested in wheel building really.. but the wheels i have bought have had alloy rims with inserts, stainless spokes and alloy nipples, with threadlocker on them.
My limited understanding is that once a wheel is built it will settle, the spokes will settle in the hub and in the rim.. and then the spokes will loosen a little... trust me.. I rode Bockstensturen on brand new wheels, and at the finish the wheels were like jelly.... all the spokes were loose... the shop retensioned everything, used threadlocker, and that was 6 or 7 years ago... the wheels have since been on 4 different bikes and are currently on my singlespeeder... apart from the initial near-disaster at BST in '97 they have NEVER been re-tensioned...
If I was having new wheels built now, I would also spec stainless spokes and brass nipples.... but back in '97 we were all training everyday and counting grammes, (remember?) which is probably why they had alloy nipples.......
I agree with you... that a professionally built wheel by a talented and possibly a little nerdy wheel builder may not need threadlocking compound, or re-tensioning after the break in phase... and they will stay true and tight for ever and ever.... but in reality, most of us mortals have to use the wheels that we get.... and I would rather have a wheel with threadlocker on it.... that will not fall apart on a 80km ride the first time out....!
I base my comments on the fact that I bought a bike with custom built wheels from Merlin cycles, they were threadlocked and stayed perfect for a very long time, I also had wheels built by my LBS here in sweden... they had no threadlocker, and almost fell apart after 80km... they were then retensioned, and reluctantly I managed to get the wheel builder to use threadlocker... he did... although he preached (as you do) that it wasn't necessary.... But who cares... the wheels have been great since june '97.... and the reason the braking surface hasn't worn out.... Disc Brakes..!
In my humble opinion based on almost 10 years of riding MTB's.... I would insist that any wheels I buy are threadlocked.... and if the wheel builder refuses to do it... get a warranty that they will not need re-tensioning for 7 years!
Applying threadlock is easy....
build the wheel, put a drop of the spoke threadlocker (which is very thin-like water) on every spoke where it goes into the nipple... and then simply spin the wheel fast.... the threadlocker gets thrown out into the threads and everyone is happy.
Take it easy,
Hammer.
The few
-------------------------------------------------------
> What kind of rims, spokes and nipples do you use?
> I prefer stainless steel spokes, alu rims and
> brass nipples. I can't see how that could
> corrode!!!
> And no, if the spoke tension is right, the spokes
> doesn't come loose!
Round rims, straight spokes....? ;-)
I have never built my own wheels, I am not that interested in wheel building really.. but the wheels i have bought have had alloy rims with inserts, stainless spokes and alloy nipples, with threadlocker on them.
My limited understanding is that once a wheel is built it will settle, the spokes will settle in the hub and in the rim.. and then the spokes will loosen a little... trust me.. I rode Bockstensturen on brand new wheels, and at the finish the wheels were like jelly.... all the spokes were loose... the shop retensioned everything, used threadlocker, and that was 6 or 7 years ago... the wheels have since been on 4 different bikes and are currently on my singlespeeder... apart from the initial near-disaster at BST in '97 they have NEVER been re-tensioned...
If I was having new wheels built now, I would also spec stainless spokes and brass nipples.... but back in '97 we were all training everyday and counting grammes, (remember?) which is probably why they had alloy nipples.......
I agree with you... that a professionally built wheel by a talented and possibly a little nerdy wheel builder may not need threadlocking compound, or re-tensioning after the break in phase... and they will stay true and tight for ever and ever.... but in reality, most of us mortals have to use the wheels that we get.... and I would rather have a wheel with threadlocker on it.... that will not fall apart on a 80km ride the first time out....!
I base my comments on the fact that I bought a bike with custom built wheels from Merlin cycles, they were threadlocked and stayed perfect for a very long time, I also had wheels built by my LBS here in sweden... they had no threadlocker, and almost fell apart after 80km... they were then retensioned, and reluctantly I managed to get the wheel builder to use threadlocker... he did... although he preached (as you do) that it wasn't necessary.... But who cares... the wheels have been great since june '97.... and the reason the braking surface hasn't worn out.... Disc Brakes..!
In my humble opinion based on almost 10 years of riding MTB's.... I would insist that any wheels I buy are threadlocked.... and if the wheel builder refuses to do it... get a warranty that they will not need re-tensioning for 7 years!
Applying threadlock is easy....
build the wheel, put a drop of the spoke threadlocker (which is very thin-like water) on every spoke where it goes into the nipple... and then simply spin the wheel fast.... the threadlocker gets thrown out into the threads and everyone is happy.
Take it easy,
Hammer.
The few
mytomspunnen
Aktiv medlem
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Hammer:
Problemet med att dåligt byggda hjul tappar ekerspänningen i början tror jag inte har att göra med om man struntar i att "threadlocker" eller inte.
Nej jag tror att det som händer då är att den slarviga hjulbyggaren ej spänningsbefriat hjulet på rätt sätt (se leos hjulbyggar tråd under läsvärt).
Om jag har rätt skulle ett dåligt byggt hjul som är byggt med threadlocker även det behövas efterspänning. Med threadlocker skulle denna efterspänning bli betydligt bökigare än annars!
Problemet med att dåligt byggda hjul tappar ekerspänningen i början tror jag inte har att göra med om man struntar i att "threadlocker" eller inte.
Nej jag tror att det som händer då är att den slarviga hjulbyggaren ej spänningsbefriat hjulet på rätt sätt (se leos hjulbyggar tråd under läsvärt).
Om jag har rätt skulle ett dåligt byggt hjul som är byggt med threadlocker även det behövas efterspänning. Med threadlocker skulle denna efterspänning bli betydligt bökigare än annars!
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If the wrong type of threadlocker is used.... Then I can understand it being very difficult to adjust a wheel built with threadlocker. Whereas the correct grade of threadlocker actually lubricates the spoke threads and makes adjustment easier. It reduces the risk of galling and corrosion.
You pays your money and makes your choices....!
For me that includes threadlocking compounds... not just on wheels, but on F1 engines and WRC rally cars... Trust me!
Hammer.
You pays your money and makes your choices....!
For me that includes threadlocking compounds... not just on wheels, but on F1 engines and WRC rally cars... Trust me!
Hammer.
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